Riding the subway, pulling into a new station, we ve all had the thought: What if I just got off here? What s up there? Seoul Sub-urban seeks to answer those questions, visiting subway stations across the Korean capital and looking at the surrounding areas from a perspective that combines the fresh eyes of an outsider with the understanding of longtime resident. It travels to traditional markets, ancient historical sites, Industrial zones, and the city s hippest neighborhoods, en route introducing the market vendors, blacksmiths, and artists that make Seoul so fascinating. There s no end to what you can discover here. All you have to do is get off the train.

INTRODUCTION 9

DONGDAEMUN STATION Inscrutable City 12

JONGNO 5-GA STATION It Is What It Was 19

NOKSAPYEONG STATION Foreign Affairs 26

YEOUIDO STATION River Banks 36

DONGNIMMUN STATION Spirits of the Past 41

BANGI STATION Lush Life 47

BANPO STATION Haven’t We Met Before? 51

HANSUNG UNIVERSITY STATION Writers’ Retreat 54

JONGGAK STATION Illumination 60

SANGGYE STATION Ex-Residents 65

CHANGSIN STATION Waiting 69

GANGBYEON STATION Exit Planet Seoul 76

NONHYEON STATION On and Off the Avenue 80

NORYANGJIN STATION Waterworld 83

SANGSU STATION Here Today, Gone Tomorrow 89

NAMGURO STATION Snapshots 94

DANGGOGAE STATION Life below the Mountains 98

DONGGUK UNIVERSITY STATION Independence Movement 101

SEOUL STATION Track 107

JAMWON STATION Urban Pastoral 114

HAK-DONG STATION Home Improvement 117

GONGDEOK STATION Remainders 121

EULJIRO 4-GA STATION Hiding in Plain Sight 125

MYEONG-DONG STATION BIFF! BAM! POW! 129

OLYMPIC PARK STATION Toprock 135

CHUNGMURO STATION Period Pieces 141

HAPJEONG STATION Baristas at the Gates 146

GEOYEO STATION Down and Out in Gangnam 152

SINDANG STATION Unfolding 158

MULLAE STATION Industrial Arts 167

YANGJAE STATION Odd Worlds 176

JONGNO 3-GA STATION Mixed Medium 181

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 191